1 · The short answer

The Japan Sumo Association holds six Grand Sumo tournaments a year, each lasting 15 days. Tokyo hosts three of them at Ryogoku Kokugikan: one in January, one in May and one in September. The exact days change each year, so usually you will find them on the organiser's site a good while before the tournament; check it before you book flights.

Most visitors buy a ticket online or through an agent, then use a phone for the ticket, the train and the map. Ringo Light's Japan plan covers Tokyo and the whole country with unlimited data at full speed. It arrives by email and installs in one scan, so it is ready before you land.

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2 · The three Tokyo tournaments

  • ✓January. The first tournament of the year, in the cold of mid winter. Dress warmly for the walk from the station.
  • ✓May. A mild, comfortable time to visit Tokyo, and often the easiest month for a travel plan.
  • ✓September. Usually still warm and humid in Tokyo. The venue is air conditioned.
  • ✓Other cities. March is held in Osaka, July in Nagoya and November in Fukuoka. Only January, May and September are at Ryogoku.

3 · Tickets and what to do on the day

Tickets go on sale some weeks ahead and the best seats go first. The organiser's site explains the official sales and the agents it works with. Top days, such as the final weekend, sell out quickly, while weekday afternoons are easier. Watch the dates on the site, and keep your confirmation email and any ticket in your phone offline.

Early bouts start in the morning with the lower ranks, and the best wrestlers fight in the late afternoon. The hall fills as the day goes on, so you can arrive later if you only want the top division. Check the organiser's site for the day's schedule and the venue's rules on bags and food.

4 · Getting to Ryogoku

Ryogoku Kokugikan stands beside Ryogoku station, on the JR Chuo-Sobu line, so the walk from the platform is short. The Toei Oedo subway line also stops at Ryogoku. From Tokyo Station or Akihabara, the Sobu line is the simplest route. Haneda and Narita both connect to central Tokyo by train; change to the Sobu line at Akihabara or Kinshicho.

Add a Suica or PASMO card to the wallet on your phone if your phone supports it, then top it up in the app. That covers JR, the subway and most convenience stores. After the last bouts, the station fills quickly. Look at your route home in a transit app, or wait half an hour in the nearby sumo restaurants.

5 · What your phone has to do

  • ✓Tickets. Open your ticket email or the agent's page before you reach the gate, and take a screenshot as a back up.
  • ✓Transit. A Japan transit app gives exact platforms and times. Save your hotel address in Japanese.
  • ✓Translation. Download Japanese for offline use. Rules posted at the hall and menus nearby are often only in Japanese.
  • ✓Cashless. Most shops and many restaurants take cards or phone payments, but small sumo restaurants sometimes want cash. Carry some.

6 · Signal in a packed hall

Japanese mobile networks are strong, but a venue full of thousands of phones, and the station right after the bouts, can slow down. Download tickets and routes before you arrive, and send photos once you are back on the train. A data plan that is not capped means you can stream a clip or share a map without watching a meter.

7 · Frequently asked questions

When are the Grand Sumo tournaments in Tokyo?+
In January, May and September at Ryogoku Kokugikan, each for 15 days. The exact dates change each year, so check the Japan Sumo Association site before you plan.
Where is Ryogoku Kokugikan?+
Beside Ryogoku station in Sumida, Tokyo. It is on the JR Chuo-Sobu line and the Toei Oedo subway line.
How do I buy tickets?+
Through the organiser's site or the agents it lists. Sales open some weeks before each tournament and popular days sell out.
Will my phone work inside the hall?+
Japanese networks are strong, but a full venue and the station afterwards slow down. Save tickets and routes offline before you arrive.
Which Ringo Light plan covers Tokyo?+
Ringo Light's Japan plan covers Tokyo and the rest of Japan, with unlimited data at full speed.

8 · Sources

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