1 · The short answer

The maples in Kyoto usually turn red from mid November to early December, with the exact timing depending on the weather that autumn. Several temples, among them Kiyomizu-dera, open in the evening with the trees lit, but the dates and hours are set by each temple, so check each one's own site.

These are the busiest weeks of the Kyoto year: buses fill, the famous temples queue and a tight schedule falls apart. A phone that works the moment you land helps with the bus map, the reserved entry time and the translation. Ringo Light's Japan plan covers Kyoto and the whole country with unlimited data at full speed, and it installs in one scan.

Ringo Light's Japan plan covers the whole of Japan: unlimited data at full speed, 3 days for $9.99, 2 weeks for $26.99 or 30 days for $54.99, nothing renews. The plan is at ringoesim.com/japan, and every brand's price for Tokyo is compared on one day in Best eSIM for Tokyo.

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2 · When and where the leaves turn

Leaves colour first in the higher, cooler parts of the city and later in the centre, so a week of travel can cover several stages. Forecasts from weather companies are updated through the autumn; follow one a few days before you go. Temples such as Tofuku-ji, Eikan-do, Kiyomizu-dera and the Arashiyama area are popular, and the Philosopher's Path is a quieter walk.

Go early in the morning if you can. Most visitors arrive from late morning, and the first hour at a temple is the calmest.

3 · Evening illuminations

  • ✓Which temples. A number of temples open after dark for a limited season, with the maples lit. The dates, hours and entry rules are on each temple's own site.
  • ✓Timed entry. Some places sell tickets for a time slot or limit numbers on busy evenings. Check before you set out, and keep the booking in your phone.
  • ✓After dark. Paths can be steep and unlit between sites. Plan a single area for the evening rather than hopping across the city.

4 · Buses, trains and IC cards

Kyoto's subway is small, so many temples are reached by city bus or by the private railways and the JR lines. In November the buses are crowded and slow, and a train plus a walk is often quicker. A transit app shows live routes and which stop is nearest.

A Suica or ICOCA card on your phone wallet, if your phone supports it, pays for trains, buses and many shops across Japan. The cards from other regions work in Kyoto. Top up before a crowded day so you are not caught at a machine.

5 · What your phone has to do

  • ✓Maps. Save the temple areas offline, because wide old streets with tall walls can confuse the signal.
  • ✓Reservations. Keep hotel, restaurant and temple bookings in one folder that opens without a connection.
  • ✓Translation. Download Japanese for offline use. Many small restaurants and ticket machines are not in English.
  • ✓Cashless. Cards and phone payments work in most places, but small temple shops and stalls may only take cash.

6 · Signal in the crowds

Kyoto has good coverage, but the lanes beside Kiyomizu-dera and the approach to Arashiyama can be slow when thousands of phones share them. Load the route before you walk in, agree a meeting point and send photos later.

7 · Frequently asked questions

When are the autumn leaves in Kyoto?+
Usually from mid November to early December. The exact timing varies each year with the weather, so follow a current forecast.
Are temples open in the evening for the leaves?+
Some are, for a limited season with the trees lit. Each temple sets its own dates, hours and entry rules, so check its website.
Is it better to take the bus or the train?+
In November the buses are crowded and slow. A train and a short walk is often quicker, and a transit app shows live options.
Can I use Suica or ICOCA in Kyoto?+
Yes. A card from another region works on Kyoto trains, buses and in many shops. Phone versions need a compatible phone.
Which Ringo Light plan covers Kyoto?+
Ringo Light's Japan plan covers Kyoto and the rest of Japan, with unlimited data at full speed.

8 · Sources

Read next: best esim for japan · best esim for kyoto